Buttermilks Main Area
Unnamed Boulder
Not listed in the guide, but a two-or-three-minute walk directly up the hill from the Saigon Boulder/Sharma Traverse Boulder will bring you to this large and little-known boulder.



Buttermilks Main
1. Unnamed v8?
On the northwest side of this is a slightly crusty bulging wall. Start high, at a crack and climb up and right with the small boulder at your back (a little scary). Hard move turning the bulge on grainy rock, but it will probably clean up. You have to be really careful not to hurt yourself if you fall off the upper part over the rock below.

2. Project.

3. Unnamed v8? ***
On the west side of this is a beautiful tall, smooth wall that is climbed from a sit-start via nice crimps and long moves. Super high quality face climbing.

4. Unnamed v5/6?
Stand start and climb the wall with technical moves on good rock. Sds is a grade or so harder?

5. Unnamed v4/5?
Climb the wall from a standing start.

Buttermilks Outlying, Dale's Camp
Xenolith Problem Low v9? **
Page 303; Problem #15; Start matched at the xenolith by using a crafty toe-hook low around to the right. Pull on and climb up via the slopey arete and xenoliths above. Sweet problem.

Buttermilks Outlying, Get Carter
Diedrin v10?
Page 266 but on the nearby boulder, not listed in the guide; Eduardo Carvalho Jan/Feb 2009. Start siting at the base of a tiny dihedral to the left of an obvious arete project. Right hand is LOW and left hand is higher on the small facet of the dihedral at a tiny crimp. Make a hard pull off the ground, cross right above left, and then make a big move up and left to the ramp. Top out--kinda highball--by climbing up and rightward. The top part is perhaps more fun than the hard start, though it needs some cleaning up there!

Buttermilks Outlying, Get Carter
Adam Cocaine v8? **
Page 267; Adam ---?, Jan 2009. Sit start as for #15, but match hands, placing the left above right, and move immediately rightward. Use a small sharp right-hand sidepull, and a little bit of trickery, to join #16. Pretty sweet little addition that seems so obvious after Adam figured it out.

Buttermiks Outlying, Checkerboard
King Me v10?
Page 258, sit to #33; Chris Schulte, Dec 2008. Says Chris: "Start sitting under the overhang on a RH pinch, LH sloping edge. Pull into a knee scum, and make long compression moves up and rightward into the #33.. Kinda cool, but a little dumpy next to the checkerboard!"

Buttermilks Outlying, Pollen Grains
Finder's Swank v8?
Page 282, #8 into #7; Wills Young Dec 13 2008. Nothing special, but something to do: start as for #8 with both hands on the good shallow hueco hold, and climb left and up to join #7. Done after a good hold broke here in fall 2008. (Finder's Fee is not much changed by the break).

Buttermilks Outlying, Pollen Grains
Cynthia Swank (the Full Version) v9? ***
Page 282, sit to #7; Wills Young Dec 13 2008. Start with both hands in large left-facing undercling/sidepull at left as for #6. Move right by a hard move and a little trickery to join #7. An excellent and obvious addition that is well worth doing.

Buttermilks Main
Sit to Garrett's Problem v9-ish? ***
Page 196, new line. Charlie Barrett, Nov/Dec? 2008. Sit as for Fly Boy Sit, and follow that at first, but climb right to finish as for Garrett's Problem (see below). Charlie says Garrett's problem is top quality and the sit makes an excellent climb.

Buttermilks Main
The Buttermelter v11/12? **
Page 221, not listed, between #23 and #24; Chris Schulte, Dec 2008. Stand start right of the middle section of #23 in underclings, with "right hand on a ball..." writes Chris, "lock in a kneebar and udge up and cross with the right hand to the 'glass dish' on The Buttermilker. Bicycle, left hand up to sidepull crimp, double toe hooks to bicycle switch, and finish The 'Milker..."

Buttermilks Outlying, Get Carter Boulder
A Grand Day Out v9/10? *
Page 266, "Project (A Grand Day Out)"; Chris Schulte, Dec 12 2008. Originally a lot easier, this line broke several years ago and was kind of abandoned, though listed in the guide. Kinda sharpish and a bit scary. Chris Shulte writes: "... suggest v9-10, similar to stained glass... started from the ground low on grommit v4, first move is left to a small side pull, perch left foot and head up on small gastons and the occasional right crimp to obvious edge up high to a long move to the top. the "last hold" a good edge, is somewhat suspect..."

Buttermilks Main Area
Constellation v9/10/11? ***
Page 206, Unlisted, start as for #7; Chris Schulte, Dec 12 2008. Nice line. You start in the crack and climb to the boulder's lip. Follow the lip angling up rightward all the way to the apex. Top out.

Buttermilks Outlying, Secrets Area
Rise v9 Super-highball
NOT LISTED IN GUIDE: Massive block in Ravine west of path between Windy Wall and Secrets of the Beehive. April/May 2008; Shawn Diamond, solo after rappel inspection/cleaning. See Blog report.

Rock Creek, Big Meadow Campground
Unnamed v7?
Page 43, #24 into #23; Charlie Barrett.

Rock Creek, Big Meadow Campground
Unnamed v7?
Page 43, #24 into #20; Charlie Barrett.

Buttermilks Main Area
The Eh Train v8/9?
Page 186, not listed #6a; Between #6 and #7, sit start at the arete and follow the slopey sidepull/rail up and then pull directly over. Fiishing by joining the top of #7 also done: The B Train around the same grade.

Buttermilks Outlying, Dale's Camp
Unnamed v6/7? *
Page 314, "Project" #17; Wills Young; April 24 2008. Sit start also at about v7/8.

Buttermilks Outlying, Dale's Camp
Paralimpet v9/10? *
Page 314, "Project" #10; Wills Young; April 24 2008. Start low w/both hands in crack/sidepull. Hard moves to gain and then pull up on a limpet-like protrusion.

Buttermilks Outlying, Dale's Camp
Hornet Slab Right v5 *
Page 314, "Unknown" #9. Excellent. Just needed a confirmed rating.

Buttermilks Main Area
Garrett's Problem v7/8 **
Page 196, not listed #28a; Garrett Gregor, early April 2008. Line right of #28. Starts left hand low and right hand on a slopey crimp instead of crawling up the slab to the jugs. Bust right to a committing move over the slab... You do this with the left hand on what you would normally use for the right hand for Fly Boy. Looks frightening. Repeated, sit added, and recommended by Charlie Barrett.

Buttermilks Outlying, Pollen Grains
The KD Factor (v3/4?)
Page 291, #6a (new); Kevin Daniels, April 20 2008. Not listed in the guide. Sit start matched in a nice hole down and right from #6; dyno up left and move left and up through nice huecos to a big black xenolith. Fom there, head up left on nice slopers to intersect #6 near the top.

Buttermilks Main Area
Matt's Project (& SDS) v?
Page 214, right of #11; Ian Cotter-Brown and others? "A low traverse on cool slopey holds just right of the buttermilk stem that is worth doing and still needs a sit start." SDS By Raffael Passos, v9?

Buttermilks Main Area
Easy Grit/Hard Grit? v8/9?
Page 204, #5; March 2008; reported by Ben Snyder though not claimed as an FA, a low-start to Easy Grit not mentioned in the guide.

Buttermilks Outlying, Solitaire
Evil Empire v6/7?
Page 264, Project #2; March 2008, Charlie Barrett, from rail 4 feet off the ground. Right of #1, "make two moves to nice edges then dyno for the good edge about 5 feet up, then up on some cool slopers and edges to a hard move out left followed by a big high step onto the edge you dynoed for and stand up to a big dyorite knob on top."

Buttermilks Main Area
Affirmative Action (v7?)
Page 190, near #11; Joe McDaniel, Josh Williams, winter '07/08. Not listed in the guide. Opposite Stained Glass, on the boulder leaning against the Stained Glass boulder: jump start and climb up and left by a big move and avoid touching the Stained Glass Boulder as you top out.

Buttermilks Main Area
Fakir School (v10?)
Page 195, Project #17; Mar 8 2008; Gabriele Moroni.

Happy Boulders West Rim
Crimpanzee (v6)
Page 131; not listed in guide, but near the problems located on the west rim on a cliff-band above problem #24; Andrew Stevens, Feb 17 2008. Climbs a blunt arete on the left side of a wall of good rock. See the write-up on BishopBouldering.Blogspot.com here.

Buttermilks Main Area
Magnetic North (v8/9) **
Page 232, Feb 16 2008; Jeff Sillcox. Begin at the center of the wall, hands at the jug that marks the end of line #10 in the diagram on page 233 of the guidebook. Climb up rightward to a small right-hand crimp that sits in a small shallow circular depression. Pull up to the patina at the lip from here. Jeff topped out by moving left along the upper patina and then going up the slab as per problem #8. Repeated by Wills Young, also Feb 2008.

Buttermilks Main Area
Action Potential (v2? Highball) *
Page 194, Project #7; Feb 14 2008; Kevin Daniels. Begin on the block on the left side of the arete and climb the arete.

Buttermilks Main Area
True North (v 13)
Page 232, link-up #8 to #11(!); Jan 17 2008; Sean McColl.

Buttermilks Main Area
The Oracle (v13)
Page 232, link-up #8 to #14; Jan 15 2008; Sean McColl.

Sad Boulders
Water Hazard (v11)
Page 168, Project #14; Jan 8 2008; Sean McColl. Sit start at the same place as for Bubba Escapes the Ward, but instead of making the huge move to gain an undercling, "make hard moves up and right to a scary sketchy top out."

Happy Boulders
Kill On Sight (v12) **
Page 98; Unknown/Project #20; Jan 11 2008; Sean McColl. "SDS right of Slow Dance and go up the amazing prow." Standing Kill Order is the standing start to this prow, also FA Sean McColl.

Sad Boulders
Bubba Escapes the Ward (v11)
Page 168; Project #14; Dec 2007; Dan Mills. Sit start and make a huge move to join #13.

Pollen Grains
Return Jedi (v10?) ***
Page 283; Project #14; Dec 7 2007; Vic Copeland. "The most aesthetic start, on two right-slanting edges just right of the arete," says Vic "... It's probably somewhere between v9-v11." I repeated this Dec 2008 and it is an excellent little old-school crimping gem. I'm also guessing about v10--Wills. See also, the start five feet to the LEFT of the arete, Massage from Below, below.

Pollen Grains
Drone Direct (v9??) **
Page 281; Nov 25 2007; Vic Copeland. Direct exit to Drone Militia. Stand start. "I started as for Drone Militia, but from the pocket and the jug a few moves up went straight into a hueco with my right hand, grabbed a bad sloper with my left, and launched up to a patina jug a few feet left of the cobbles. Fun problem probably about V8-V10." Vic Copeland.

Pollen Grains
Droning Silence (v8+?) **
Page 281; Link 17 to 18. 2007

Secrets Area
The Golden Rule (5.12? E6/7?)
NOT LISTED IN GUIDE: Massive block in Ravine west of path between Windy Wall and Secrets of the Beehive. Nov 24 2007; Kevin Jorgeson, lead with rope placing three pieces. Reported in the Scene and Blog. See also, Unnamed by Chris Sharma on same block.

Druid Stones
Lounge Lizards Superdirect (v11/12?) ***
Page 337 #14a; Nov 4 2007; Tony Lamiche (flashed), from sit start very low at left of deep hueco, as for the regular Lounge Lizards. Instead of pulling left out of the large hueco to gain some crimps before moving back up right (which is how the regular version still goes at v11), go direct to a good incut up to the right of the sit-start near the lip of the big hole/hueco. Tony made a huge pull from a left edge using a right drop-knee. From the good incut, launch up slightly left to join the regular line. This straightens the line to make a better and harder problem. Repeated by Isaac Caldiero. Possibly easier than v12 for taller climbers ...

Druid Stones
Gasperini (v11/12) *
Page 340 #1; Nov 4 2007; Tony Lamiche, from sit start, L on crimp and R on undercling. Jump to rough slopey lip with L to finish. Repeated by Isaac Caldiero using a move into an undercling at the top, rather than dynoing -- apparently an easier method at about v11/12.

Buttermilks Main/Peabody Boulders
Footprints (v9? Superhighball) *
Page 228 #1; Nov3 2007; Kevin Jorgeson from standing start at lowest good holds. Superhighball line with crux moves turning the lip to gain a massive slab which is climbed with some very scary (but reportedly not too hard) sequences up high. See: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/bishopfootprints/

Dale's Camp
Xavier's Roof (v12?) ***
Page 304 #19; Nov 2 2007; Tony Lamiche; sit start. Standing start, from left by stepping off slab of rock is likely v11 or so; this provides the desperate finishing move to the sit-start. Tony did the last move with hands wide apart to left and right (right on crimp sidepull), and using a high right heel -- a very tricky deadpoint to gain the jug with left hand. Beautiful line. See photos. Repeated by Tyler Landman: he did the crux by jumping to the jug with the right hand: See Moon Climbing Blog and Scene Nov 9-10, 2007.

Rock Creek
Tony's Dyno (v12) *
Page 282 #19 Variation Eliminate; 2007; Tony Lamiche; standing start. Start as for #19, but from the crimpy edge at 9 feet, move up and left and then jump for the lip of the boulder up and left. The right rib is not used. Fun and very tricky move!

Buttermilks Main Cave Area
Lactose Intolerant (v5?) *
Page 221 Left of #23; October 2007; Jeff Honeywell; stand start. Climb up and right following a line of flakes up and right above the alcove to join the finish of #23.

Buttermilks Main Cave Area
The Wheel of Cheese (v10?) *
Page 221 #27 Addition; Oct 10 2007; Jeff Sillcox from sit start. Begin as for #27, climb up #28 until you can move wildly left across the top of the deep alcove using a cool undercling pinch feature. Drop down slightly to meet #25 at the deep hueco (knee bar) and finish left and up on #25.

Pollen Grains
Massage from Below (v8?) *
Page 283 Left of #14; Oct 7 2007; Vic Copeland. Begin about five feet LEFT of the arete. Here is a slightly grainy flake system. "We began standing up with our hands in the flake, firing up to an edge left hand, and then worked up the arete. While there are some loose looking flakes, it was not difficult to stay on good rock the whole way." Vic Copeland. Crux is low. See also, Return Jedi above.

Rock Creek
Groovy Sue (v10)
Page 43 #23 Addition; 2007; Wills Young, sit start. Sit as for #23 and move right using an undercling for the right hand  to join #24 at the good hold 7 feet up the arete; finish on this.

Druid Stones
Through the Window (v8) **
Page 340 #2a; April 2007; Wills Young from sit start. As for Soul Window through the crux to gain good edge on the upper wall, then move left with long moves on good holds to gain the "window." Climb through the window to finish! Fun.
Buttermilks Main

Happy Boulders
Bubba Lobotomy (v12 endurance) **
Page 86; Project #8; Mar 16 2007; Dan Mills. Sit start at #7, traverse left to finish as for #3. Repeated by Sean McColl, Jan 2008.

Buttermilks Main/Peabody  Boulders
The Big Easy (v7/8?) *
Page 228 #4; March 2007; Wills Young, from standing start. Climb the black streak. The crux pull is relatiely low getting past the steepest section. Good edges appear in the technical vertical section. The slab is relatively easy.

Happy Boulders
Bubba: The Legend (v10+) **
Page 86; Addition; Feb 26 2007; Dan Mills. Sit start at #5, traverse left to finish as for #3. Incorrectly listed as traverse 5 to 7, now corrected.

Happy Boulders
Bubba Gets Committed (v10) **
Page 86; Addition; Feb 26 2007; Dan Mills. Sit start at #7, traverse left to finish as for #5.

Buttermilks Main
Mandala Direct Sit Start (v14)
Page 242 #1; 2007; Paul Robinson.

Buttermilks Main
Mandala Direct (V12)
Page 242#1; March 22 2007; Jeff Sillcox from stand start. Go direct at the top instead of moving left to the deep incuts. From the sidepull/ear at right you take the small crimp above with the left hand and make a huge pull to a small right edge, and up.

Secrets Area
Chris's Arete (v6/7?)
NOT LISTED IN GUIDE: Massive block in Ravine west of path between Windy Wall and Secrets of the Beehive. 2007; Chris Sharma, standing start; the northwest arete. Big move up high between good holds.

Secrets Area
Flight of the Bumblebee (v9?) ***
Page 272 #20; Jan 2007; Kevin Jorgeson with jump start to gain good starting hold. Kevin suggested a lower rating, but I have top-roped this line and feel it is very sustained. Extremely thin moves come after a sustained intro (approx v6) and a good, but not amazing fingertips-edge rest. The crux v7/8 section is insecure and very bold: probably British E8. Repeated by Kevin Daniels. Also a sweet little video, and FA images in a slideshow.

Bardini Boulders
The Beautiful and Damned (v12/13) ***
Page 30 [photo] Page 317 [mention in caption]; Jan 7 2007; Kevin Jorgeson from stand start. Definitely the most extreme line, and perhaps the hardest and proudest ascent in Bishop. A physical sequence on the overhang leads to a rest of sorts before an insecure and super-highball topout. "35 feet of terrifying perfection," says Kevin. Very impressive. Done just after the guidebook went to press. Probably about E9. Repeated by Ethan Pringle. Footage of Ethan's ascent can be found in the King Lines DVD by Big Up Productions.

Buttermilks Main
Unnamed (v7/8)
Page 245 #2; Dec 23 2007; Jeff Sillcox; sit start. Move diagonally right under the lip to top out as indicated in the picture. Not as hard as it looked.