Buttermilks Main Area
Fakir School (v10?)
Page 195, Project #17; Mar 8 2008; Gabriele Moroni.

Happy Boulders West Rim
Crimpanzee (v6)
Page 131; not listed in guide, but near the problems located on the west rim on a cliff-band above problem #24; Andrew Stevens, Feb 17 2008. Climbs a blunt arete on the left side of a wall of good rock. See the write-up on BishopBouldering.Blogspot.com here.

Buttermilks Main Area
Magnetic North (v8/9) **
Page 232, Feb 16 2008; Jeff Sillcox. Begin at the center of the wall, hands at the jug that marks the end of line #10 in the diagram on page 233 of the guidebook. Climb up rightward to a small right-hand crimp that sits in a small circular depression in the rock surface. Pull up to the patina at the lip from here. Jeff topped out by moving left along the upper patina and then going up the slab as per problem #8.

Buttermilks Main Area
Action Potential (v2? Highball) *
Page 194, Project #7; Feb 14 2008; Kevin Daniels. Begin on the block on the left side of the arete and climb the arete.

Buttermilks Main Area
True North (v 13)
Page 232, link-up #8 to #11(!); Jan 17 2008; Sean McColl.

Buttermilks Main Area
The Oracle (v13)
Page 232, link-up #8 to #14; Jan 15 2008; Sean McColl.

Sad Boulders
Water Hazard (v11)
Page 168, Project #14; Jan 8 2008; Sean McColl. Sit start at the same place as for Bubba Escapes the Ward, but instead of making the huge move to gain an undercling, "make hard moves up and right to a scary sketchy top out."

Happy Boulders
Kill On Sight (v12) **
Page 98; Unknown/Project #20; Jan 11 2008; Sean McColl. "SDS right of Slow Dance and go up the amazing prow." Standing Kill Order is the standing start to this prow, also FA Sean McColl.

Sad Boulders
Bubba Escapes the Ward (v11)
Page 168; Project #14; Dec 2007; Dan Mills. Sit start and make a huge move to join #13.

Pollen Grains
Return Jedi (v10?) ***
Page 283; Project #14; Dec 7 2007; Vic Copeland. "The most aesthetic start, on two right slanting edges just right of the arete. ... It's probably somewhere between v9-v11" Vic Copeland. See also, the start five feet to the LEFT of the arete, Massage from Below, below.

Pollen Grains
Drone Direct (v9??) **
Page 281; Nov 25 2007; Vic Copeland. Direct exit to Drone Militia. Stand start. "I started as for Drone Militia, but from the pocket and the jug a few moves up went straight into a hueco with my right hand, grabbed a bad sloper with my left, and launched up to a patina jug a few feet left of the cobbles. Fun problem probably about V8-V10." Vic Copeland.

Pollen Grains
Droning Silence (v8+?) **
Page 281; Link 17 to 18. 2007

Secrets Area
The Golden Rule (5.12? E5/6?)
NOT LISTED IN GUIDE: Massive block in Ravine west of path between Windy Wall and Secrets of the Beehive. Nov 24 2007; Kevin Jorgeson, lead with rope placing three pieces. Reported in the Scene and Blog. See also, Unnamed by Chris Sharma on same block.

Druid Stones
Lounge Lizards Superdirect (v11/12?) ***
Page 337 #14a; Nov 4 2007; Tony Lamiche (flashed), from sit start very low at left of deep hueco, as for the regular Lounge Lizards. Instead of pulling left out of the large hueco to gain some crimps before moving back up right (which is how the regular version still goes at v11), go direct to a good incut up to the right of the sit-start near the lip of the big hole/hueco. Tony made a huge pull from a left edge using a right drop-knee. From the good incut, launch up slightly left to join the regular line. This straightens the line to make a better and harder problem. Repeated by Isaac Caldiero. Possibly easier than v12 for taller climbers ...

Druid Stones
Gasperini (v11/12) *
Page 340 #1; Nov 4 2007; Tony Lamiche, from sit start, L on crimp and R on undercling. Jump to rough slopey lip with L to finish. Repeated by Isaac Caldiero using a move into an undercling at the top, rather than dynoing -- apparently an easier method at about v11/12.

Buttermilks Main/Peabody Boulders
Footprints (v9? Superhighball) *
Page 228 #1; Nov3 2007; Kevin Jorgeson from standing start at lowest good holds. Superhighball line with crux moves turning the lip to gain a massive slab which is climbed with some very scary (but reportedly not too hard) sequences up high. See: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/bishopfootprints/

Dale's Camp
Xavier's Roof (v12?) ***
Page 304 #19; Nov 2 2007; Tony Lamiche; sit start. Standing start, from left by stepping off slab of rock is likely v11 or so; this provides the desperate finishing move to the sit-start. Tony did the last move with hands wide apart to left and right (right on crimp sidepull), and using a high right heel -- a very tricky deadpoint to gain the jug with left hand. Beautiful line. See photos. Repeated by Tyler Landman: he did the crux by jumping to the jug with the right hand: See Moon Climbing Blog and Scene Nov 9-10, 2007.

Rock Creek
Tony's Eliminate (v12) *
Page 282 #19 Variation Eliminate; 2007; Tony Lamiche; standing start. Start as for #19, but from the crimpy edge at 9 feet, move up and left and then jump for the lip of the boulder up and left. The right rib is not use. Fun and very tricky move!

Buttermilks Main Cave Area
Lactose Intolerant (v5?) *
Page 221 Left of #23; October 2007; Jeff Honeywell; stand start. Climb up and right following a line of flakes up and right above the alcove to join the finish of #23.

Buttermilks Main Cave Area
The Wheel of Cheese (v10?) *
Page 221 #27 Addition; Oct 10 2007; Jeff Sillcox from sit start. Begin as for #27, climb up #28 until you can move wildly left across the top of the deep alcove using a cool undercling pinch feature. Drop down slightly to meet #25 at the deep hueco (knee bar) and finish left and up on #25.

Pollen Grains
Massage from Below (v8?) *
Page 283 Left of #14; Oct 7 2007; Vic Copeland. Begin about five feet LEFT of the arete. Here is a slightly grainy flake system. "We began standing up with our hands in the flake, firing up to an edge left hand, and then worked up the arete. While there are some loose looking flakes, it was not difficult to stay on good rock the whole way." Vic Copeland. Crux is low. See also, Return Jedi above.

Rock Creek
Groovy Sue (v10)
Page 43 #23 Addition; 2007; Wills Young, sit start. Sit as for #23 and move right using an undercling for the right hand  to join #24 at the good hold 7 feet up the arete; finish on this.

Druid Stones
Through the Window (v8) **
Page 340 #2a; April 2007; Wills Young from sit start. As for Soul Window through the crux to gain good edge on the upper wall, then move left with long moves on good holds to gain the "window." Climb through the window to finish! Fun.
Buttermilks Main

Happy Boulders
Bubba Lobotomy (v12 endurance) **
Page 86; Project #8; Mar 16 2007; Dan Mills. Sit start at #7, traverse left to finish as for #3. Repeated by Sean McColl, Jan 2008.

Buttermilks Main/Peabody  Boulders
The Big Easy (v7/8?) *
Page 228 #4; March 2007; Wills Young, from standing start. Climb the black streak. The crux pull is relatiely low getting past the steepest section. Good edges appear in the technical vertical section. The slab is relatively easy.

Happy Boulders
Bubba: The Legend (v10+) **
Page 86; Addition; Feb 26 2007; Dan Mills. Sit start at #5, traverse right to finish as for #7.

Happy Boulders
Bubba Gets Committed (v10) **
Page 86; Addition; Feb 26 2007; Dan Mills. Sit start at #7, traverse left to finish as for #5.

Buttermilks Main
Mandala Direct Sit Start (v14)
Page 242 #1; 2007; Paul Robinson.

Buttermilks Main
Mandala Direct (V12)
Page 242#1; March 22 2007; Jeff Sillcox from stand start. Go direct at the top instead of moving left to the deep incuts. From the sidepull/ear at right you take the small crimp above with the left hand and make a huge pull to a small right edge, and up.


Secrets Area
Unnamed (v6/7?)
NOT LISTED IN GUIDE: Massive block in Ravine west of path between Windy Wall and Secrets of the Beehive. 2007; Chris Sharma, standing start; the northwest arete. Big move up high between good holds.

Secrets Area
Flight of the Bumblebee (v9?) ***
Page 272 #20; Jan 2007; Kevin Jorgeson with jump start to gain good starting hold. Kevin suggested a lower rating, but I have top-roped this line and feel it is very sustained. Extremely thin moves come after a sustained intro (approx v6) and a good, but not amazing fingertips-edge rest. The crux v7/8 section is insecure and very bold: probably British E8.

Bardini Boulders
The Beautiful and Damned (v12/13) ***
Page 30 [photo] Page 317 [mention in caption]; Jan 7 2007; Kevin Jorgeson from stand start. Definitely the most extreme line, and perhaps the hardest ascent in Bishop. A physical sequence on the overhang leads to a rest of sorts before an insecure and super-highball topout. "35 feet of terrifying perfection," says Kevin. Very impressive. Done just after the guidebook went to press. Probably about E9. Repeated by Ethan Pringle.

Buttermilks Main
Unnamed (v7/8)
Page 245 #2; Dec 23 2007; Jeff Sillcox; sit start. Move diagonally right under the lip to top out as indicated in the picture. Not as hard as it looked.